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WORDS and PHOTOGRAPHY by Matthew Frederick
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Compared to the fast-paced rhythm of life that we have become accustomed to in modern times, the unsuspecting scope and antiquated majesty of Castillo San Felipe del Morro was slow to make an impression on us as we approached the imposing gray ramparts from the tangle of alleyways left behind in Old San Juan.
Situated strategically atop a 140-foot promontory at the entrance to the Bay of San Juan, this fortified citadel has played a key role in the defense of the most prominent harbor in Puerto Rico and the wider Caribbean.
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Originally built by the Spanish in 1539 as a medieval tower –the remnants of which still exist deep in the bowels of the current structure–the fortress was expanded in the 16th and 17th by Italian military engineers.
The structure was reinforced as a thick-walled masonry stronghold capable of protecting the inhabitants from seaborne attackers. At this time, ship-launched cannon balls were a stalwart of technological and military prowess until the Spanish-American war in the late 1800’s.
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We followed the trail of a fresh sea breeze as it gently made its way through the interconnected spaces, once occupied by soldiers protecting the fort, through grand archways and along the battlements punctuated by portholes which peer out to the bay beyond.
Small details such as the hand wrought hardware and timber framed doors made from the wood of the very ships that once ferried the prospering European settler population added a depth of character and sense of history to the experience.
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Retreating across the fortress’ great lawn back towards Old San Juan, we enter the narrow streets and navigate our way through the colonial era buildings that reflect the strong European architectural influences seen throughout the Caribbean islands.
With the sun climbing higher in the sky, we kept to the shaded shelter of side streets, which after an endless stream of tourist souvenir shops, fortune led us to the entrance of Ole–a hat shop that has been selling hand-fitted Panamas since 1977.
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Ole is renowned for the ability they afford customers to customize the hat to their preference. As such, you can also expect individual attention from the staff who permit only a limited number through the door at any time.
Customers can choose from a wide selection of refined grosgrain ribbons of various widths and color combinations. Naturally, we decided to investigate the situation thoroughly by customizing two hats of our own.
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For the first we selected a ribbon with bold red and green stripes, cut short to my wife’s taste. The second, we opted for a navy ribbon with a red top-stitch that we allowed to trail long behind the slightly folded brim for my daughter.
The ensuing process was unhurried and managed with great care, each ribbon selection was carefully metered and organized to each order.
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We were being helped by the owner’s wife, who with the adroitness of someone that has performed the motions thousands of times, artfully and deliberately attached the ribbons to our hats–cutting, folding and gluing the exposed edges of the ribbon to create a finely tailored, fished edge at each point where the ribbon crossed itself.
Hand-applied metal fasteners used to secure the perfectly tied bows were then subtly placed for concealment on each hat. Now attached with a firm sense of permanence, the hats were steamed and finally presented with flair to the new owner.
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The entire process took almost an hour, but we felt no sense of rush as time slipped by pleasantly whilst we watched the process unfold before us, accompanied by friendly banter from the staff. Without doubt, Ole is a shop stuck in time, but a wonderful time it was.
Ole
105 Fortaleza Street
San Juan
Puerto Rico
